Asparagus. Nature’s proof that simple ingredients cooked with passion and care make the tastiest treats. Therefore, with asparagus season fast approaching (traditionally it starts after St. George’s Day), we eagerly accepted an invite to No. 38 The Park, the crown jewel in The Lucky Onion group’s impressive collection of properties, to sample their new Markham Farm asparagus menu.
Having tempted Executive Chef Ronnie Bonetti away from a long stint with the Soho group, he took the helm across The Lucky Onion group last November. He has already made a big impact, revamping menus including the recently reopened The Tavern. Ronnie’s latest offering is the aforementioned asparagus menu, which will feature a choice of Markham Farm’s asparagus served one of three ways, and paired with a perfectly matched glass of Cloudy Bay wine.
Arrival Drinks…
Upon arrival, we were greeted with a coupe of non-vintage New Zealand Cloudy Bay Pelorus, a lightly sparkling mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. I’m not a huge lover of champagne or sparkling wine, but a few more glasses and this could convert me; apple crispness and a lingering, creamy nuttiness.
We then moved into the gorgeous dining room to start our feast. A quick word about No. 38…if you are looking for a boutique B&B or even the ultimate private party in Cheltenham, you need look no further. From the classicly elegant Georgian townhouse exterior to the stylish and sophisticated interior, it is simply stunning.
The Asparagus…
First up was asparagus, poached Cacklebean eggs, oozing with runny and rich orange yolks and smothered in hollandaise sauce. Cloudy Bay suggested pairing this with a crisp and citrussy 2016 Sauvignon Blanc. Funnily enough, whilst asparagus makes your pee smell strange, the winemaker’s tasting notes actually include pee as one of the predominant aromas; probably a coincidence but they certainly make a delicious pairing regardless.
The second serving featured lashings of brown shrimp butter. If you’ve not had this genius combination before, please do. Tiny brown shrimp are mixed with butter, herbs, white wine and a hearty pinch of spicy cayenne pepper. Amazing with fish dishes but equally at home accompanying the tender asparagus stems.
Finally completing the heavenly trio was asparagus with moreish Cannon and Cannon bresaola (air dried beef), pea shoots and gloriously nutty shaved parmesan. This was easily my favourite dish as the combination of the salty beef, nutty parmesan and fresh asparagus is one I could never tire of eating. Cloudy Bay paired it with a fruity pinot noir, bursting with strawberry and cherry and with a really smooth finish. Had I not been driving, I could happily have finished the bottle.
We rounded off the evening in a most civilised manner with ripe blue cheese, crumbly oatcakes, sticky chutney, grapes. Oh and more wine of course. Perfection!
If you’re feeling inspired and fancy trying it for yourself, the Markham Farm Asparagus Menu is priced at a reasonable £15. Happily, this includes a glass of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc and will be available from April to July, at No. 131, The Wild Duck Inn, The Wheatsheaf and The Chequers.